I have always had a hooded eye shape but until I trained as a make up artist I had no idea why traditional makeup applications didn’t work. When I decided to stop dyeing my hair and embrace my natural silver hair, I really took the time to work out how I could wear makeup that both flattered my new hair grey hair colour and my eye shape. I’d like to share with my 5 favourite was to maximise and open up hooded eyes.
Hooded eyes are a beautiful eye shape. They do, however, require special attention to help open them up! A hooded eye can close the eye in and this can get more pronounced as we age. Many women fret at the suggestion of hooded eyes, but to be honest, I have found that in my work as a makeup artist, that most people do have a hooded eyes. So, how do we find Ways to Maximise and Open Up Hooded Eyes?
Here are my tips to help you do just that.
1. Prep Your Eyes
When applying make up, the most important step is the first one and that is to prep the eye properly. Here are the steps I use on myself and on clients.
Step 1- Use an eye primer to prep the eye. There are many on the market- some good, some not so much. If you want a vegan, non toxic eye primer that works well, then I recommend Arbonne’s Prime and Proper. You can buy it through my website here.
Step 2- Set your eye primer with a loose powder. Apply and then glide over with your finger. It should feel silky, soft and smooth to the touch.
Step 3- Your eyes are now ready for the rest of your eye makeup.
2. Create a Crease
If you have hooded eyes, you will notice that you have very little lid space. You won’t want to close in your eye further by loading on too much makeup. What we need to do is concentrate on using light, subtle shadow colours and highlight to open up the eye.
Step 1- To achieve a more open eye appearance, it is worth investing in a taupe colour. A light to medium taupe colour eyeshadow is a subtle way of opening up the eye. It does this by creating a shadow effect. Place the shadow colour just above the natural crease of your eyes in a windscreen wiper motion.
Step 2- Add a dark smoky colour- perhaps a medium grey or brown. Make sure it is darker than your taupe. Use a small pencil brush and apply the colour just below your taupe placement. Take it into an inverted V on the outer corner of each eye. Blend with a clean fluffy eye brush.
Step 3– I like to add a frost colour to the centre of my lid for this step. I find, generally speaking, that the more frosted colours are more flattering on hooded eyes. Sometimes frosted colours have a tiny fine dusting of glitter as well. I think this works well for an evening look.
3. Hold the Eyeliner
This is a general role. I find I can add a tiny eyeliner line to my eyes when I am adding false lashes to my look. However even then, it’s best to wear lashes that are applied under the lashes such as those from Lashify (I mention these in more detail below).
If you have little to no eye space between the lash line and your crease, then eyeliner won’t work . You won’t see it, and it’s likely to transfer onto the upper eye area. This can get you in a mess-eek!
If you are going for a natural look, then apply eyeliner only to the waterline just under the top lashes. Then use a waterproof eyeliner so it doesn’t run or disappear. This will make your lashes look thicker. Use a waterproof eyeliner pencil in a dark colour like black, dark brown or charcoal.
4. False Lashes
Without a doubt, the best lashes I have ever used on my hooded eyes are those that are placed underneath the lashes themselves. I like them for a few reasons;
a, they don’t take up any lid space, so that is ideal for hooded eyes
b, you don’t need to use an eyeliner with them
c, you can get any look you want from wispy to natural to cat eye shape.
I buy mine from Lashify and they last for days without having to remove them. I love them so much and highly recommend them (and I am NOT affiliated with them in any way).
5. Curl your Natural Lashes before Applying Mascara
If you’re not crazy about wearing false lashes then there is another solution! Curling your natural lashes before mascara with an eyelash curler is a great way to open up the eye. This is true for all shapes but especially if you have hooded eyes. Curling your lashes will maximise their length as well.
A little trick is to gently warm the eyelash curlers with your hairdryer. This gives the lashes more staying power and will curl them better than using them without heat. Avoid getting them too hot, because you could burn the delicate skin area and potentially damage your lashes.
I use Surratt Relevée Eyelash curlers and I have found them to be the best. They are a little on the expensive side but well worth the investment. Otherwise you can get eyelash curlers from Amazon or on the High Street, which work well.
That completes my tips for opening up a hooded eye. I hope you enjoyed them. Sharing my tips on how to maximise your natural beauty from the inside out is what I love and sharing all things natural grey hair. Life is all about sharing right? Follow me on all my social medias from Instagram to Pinterest and join in the conversations.
Hey, my name is Mel. I’m a professionally trained Make-up Artist and Independent Colour Consultant with ItsMyColour based in London. I have been a natural hair blogger since 2016 and share topics that women Over 40 can relate to. Keeping it positive and real; supporting women entering their best years leading to midlife and beyond. Do consider following me over on Instagram @silver_styling and join the newsletter here. See you soon.